chocolate & Capri blue

Timeout

2011-08-05T22:51:00.004+03:00

Sometimes there is too much talk in the world. Too many ifs and whens and hows, and too few dragonflies, ravens, and rainbows. Those times, a hideaway in the countryside can be helpful, especially one with daisies on the lawn and a pretty little sauna house...
...a cozy kitchen...
... and a rainbow in the backyard wheat field. And sometimes, in the mornings, a moose.

Greetings from the summer house

2011-08-05T08:21:00.000+03:00

Every cloud with a silver lining casts a shadow in the sky.

The last shore, and full circle (Scotland, The Final Part.)

2011-08-03T06:58:00.000+03:00

If the weather is graceful, the golden beaches of Lewis are gorgeous. This one by Coll, just north of Stornoway, turned a rosy hue at sunset. Overlooking the beach lies newly opened Thirty Five B&B, a little haven of quiet comfort and elegance. It is run by a couple who truly went the extra mile to make our stay pleasant - and even six miles into town at dawn when we were in danger of missing our ferry.
Upon a windy hill overlooking the sea, the quiet, gray sentinels of Callanish stand guard around a mysterious grave. One millennium passes by like a cloud-wisp, a century like the blink of an eye.
Until the 1960s, people on the Hebrides lived in blackhouses like the ones below at Gearrannan. Black, because of the lack of a chimney, and the smoke from the central hearth slowly seeped out through the thatched roof. Until recently, the village has hosted a hostel for a unique lodging experience, but in 2011 it was temporarily closed, hopefully not for a long time to come.
The last, rugged shore before North America and the Newfoundland coast...
Finally, my sister and I ended up full circle in Edinburgh, where we spent a few days two years ago and resolved to come back one day. Afternoon tea at the Balmoral hotel Palm Court was a must, naturally. And repeated lunches at all-French Petit Paris on Grassmarket was bliss.
This time we had the time to crawl along with the the literary pub tour we missed last time, and to take a peek into the vault network under the city, proclaimed to be one of the most haunted locations in the UK. Well, haunted or not, the real history behind the vaults - why they were built and how they were used - made the non-ghost-all-fact-and-history tour an interesting experience.

I can't help but consider, why go to London or Paris for a weekend escape, when Edinburgh is just as lovely - and much more manageable in just a few days time? Scot or not, I will be back again - if only to shop and to enjoy a festival (or two).

Hello, Hebrides! (Scotland, Part 3.)

2011-08-01T07:22:00.004+03:00

Is it possible to leave a little piece of myself in each place I visit, and yet depart with more than I came with? Perhaps I will have to return to Skye to collect the piece of my soul I left behind.

The journey continued by crossing the Minch strait, notorious for bad sailing conditions. Winds and waves seemed to have found entertainment elsewhere, and the day looked promising...
...until we reached the other side of the strait and sailed directly into something that reminded me of the island in the mist encountered by prince Caspian and the crew on the Dawn Treader. Tarbert on the isle of Harris lay quietly enshrouded in what seemed to be an eternal blanket of mist.
And then we found what we were looking for... the tiny port hides a retailer of tweed: Harris Tweed and Knitwear.
Harris is the home of tweed, although most of the tweed produced is now made on Lewis, the adjoining isle. For those who do not know me well, let me proclaim my love for tweed. It is sturdy, warm, wind-resistant, and most of all, hand-made and beautiful. The wool and the weave must come from the Western Isles. If it's not made in the Hebrides, it is not original tweed and cannot bear the iconic orb label. Therefore, purchasing original tweed anywhere else easily doubles the price. And so, when I splurge on tweed in the Hebrides, I can take double as much back home with me. Excellent, yes? And so I ended up leaving the shop with a blue herringbone four-button jacket, as well as two tickets to the Hebridean Celtic Festival, handed to us by a sweet elderly, Scottish couple who loved tweed and Scandinavia - perfect shopping company. My sister admirably resisted the urge to get a huge, brigh pink weekend bag, so gorgeous I probably would have borrowed it all the time. Harris Tweed and Knitwear ship worldwide through their website, both products and fabric by the meter. After discovering the online shop, I suspect we, and our credit cards, are in grave danger.

For a pit stop in Tarbert, the First Fruits Tea Room serves an excellent ploughman's lunch, along with cheery service by a friendly young couple. No cash? No problem - they'll wait for you to get some from the ATM - after you are satisfied with your meal. Wish to have dinner? Be sure the place is open - and that you've booked a table in advance.

Harris is joined by a narrow isthmus to Lewis, the capital of which is Stornoway, or Steornabhagh, in Gaelic (the lingua franca in the Hebrides). We arrived around the busiest time of the year: a week that hosted the Heb Celt Fest, the Tall Ships Race, and the Lewis Highland Games. Surely it cannot be sensible of the strategists at the tourism and city offices to bundle all three festivals on an island that relies on tourism for development and growth? Finding a place to stay and another one to eat proved to be quite the daily chase on Lewis.
...and speaking of chasing, of course we needed to track down the local tweed retailer. As if one shopping spree was not enough. Lewis Loom Centre is hidden in a tiny courtyard off the street by the harbor, in what seems to be an old shed on the inside. But ah, the treasures it holds... tweed by the meter, by the jacket, scarf, hat, by the yarn, and even some tartan...
Looking for colors and patterns of the 1930s or even older? The owner of the shop, a friendly and unhurried fellow, whips out a pile of order books - the history of tweed fashion from the past 100 years or so, and a treasure trove for trads and historical costume tailors. Today he and the local weavers cater to color and pattern orders from top fashion designers, and the lucky forager might find a leftover piece of fabric made for a runway collection.
With so much choice, one is quite bewildered... or inspired, perhaps? I could feel my credit card cringe. But the sea-blue checkered pattern was so beautiful, and the deep moss green so stunning... perhaps a meter of this, and three of that?

Blue skies on Skye (Scotland, Part 2.)

2011-07-30T08:59:00.002+03:00

From Inverness we traveled westwards to Skye. True to its name, all we saw was sky, and, uncharacteristic to Scotland, it was blue!
Surrounded by the gorgeous sky, sparkling water, and green braes (slopes in Scots), pretty Portree seemed like a Mediterranean town teleported to the Highlands.
A seaside walk with houses in pastel colors and boats departing for marine wildlife tours hosts the best restaurants in town. A little further up lies the seafood restaurant of the Royal hotel. Nevermind the unquestionably eighties interior and music - the food is fresh, stylishly served, and excellent value.

After enjoying the evening concert of the traditionally dressed highland pipe march orchestra at the square, we spent both evenings at the Isles Inn, where Scottish, and Celtic live music draw a crowd almost every night. Our base was the B&B of Mrs A. Nicholson, up Stormyhill road, where our room was comfortable and the service excellent.

Skye is quite manageable by bus, if you, like we, only wish to stay for a couple of days or if you, like we, are afraid to drive on the wrong side of the road. The best solution to enjoy the gorgeous landscape may be to get off the paved roads.
We missed the bus connection once, but found that good and affordable taxi service is available throughout the island. A chauffeur may be wished for example for the drive back from Talisker distillery to Portree, especially if one wishes to get a good taste of the only whisky distillery on Skye...
Up north lies the remains of the castle of Duntulm, once a great fort of the MacDonald clan and the object of battle between the MacDonalds and MacLeods. Unfortunately this arm of the MacDonald clan was extinguished when a (most likely ill-fated) nurse dropped the heir down on the rocks below. Poor child.
The famous MacDonald clan is one of the largest Scottish clans, and has its seat in Armadale castle on Skye. The clan is operating a heritage trust and the castle is open for visitors, hosting, among other, a museum, a restaurant, and accommodation.

The rocky shore and tide pools below Duntulm are a treasure trove for beach combers. We spent a good hour looking for sea shells, anemones, sea glass, and driftwood.
And look, we even found something that looks like an old, rusty anchor ball!

Castles, monsters, mountains, and mist (Scotland, Part 1.)

2011-07-28T06:52:00.003+03:00

Our gates were strong, our walls were thick,
So smooth and high, no man could win
A foothold there, no clever trick
Could take us, have us dead or quick.
Only a bird could have got in.

Oh then our maze of tunneled stone
Grew thin and treacherous as air.
The cause was lost without a groan,
The famous citadel overthrown,
And all its secret galleries bare.

(Edwin Muir)

After a day's traveling in the clouds, past gushing rivers, grazing sheep, and magnificent peaks, my sister and I found ourselves in pretty little Inverness. From there we went on a day trip to Loch Ness and Urquhart castle. Many had been there before us:
I wondered if the lonely ladies of the desolate castle met for secret nightly chats with the equally lonely Nessie, tired of being considered a "monster"?
Inverness is a surprisingly stylish little city, and thus not needlessly dubbed the capital of the Highlands. It was tempting to spend my shopping budget in the artesan, delicatessen, and art shops upon arrival in Scotland, but I managed to hold my horses until the Hebrides, where I seriously sidestepped. Come back to read about my confessions...

For a delicious dinner, pop into the Mustard Seed, or it's little sister, Kitchen, both by the banks of the black, rapidly flowing river Ness.

Leaving Cambridge

2011-07-26T10:18:00.002+03:00

Raptures or lamentations? To rejoice or to mourn? Maybe I can push that decision further with one more day. Or two. Or perhaps a week. Nevertheless, leave I must. Suffice to say that my year in Cambridge has been my most important learning experience so far, in many ways. The motto of our MBA class seemed to be "get out of your comfort zone", and I most certainly did, both in school/business and personal life. Sometimes I pushed myself, and other times I was pushed out of my limits - and almost out of my mind. However, I am still standing, although some times it feels like trying to balance on my little toe.

I will bring one little thing home with me: a map printed in 1720, showing the road from Cambridge to Kings Lynn. This is a true roadmap: all you need to do is follow the clearly marked road, and pay attention to the villages and milestones marked on both sides. Simple, and somehow symbolic for the end of this challenging year. Why don't they make maps like these anymore?

Summer by the sea

2011-07-24T07:18:00.001+03:00

What is more summery than beaches, sea shells, sun, and salt water? And perhaps some pretty jewelry to match... My sister arrived to Cambridge for a last visit, after which we traveled north to Scotland and the Hebrides. Naturally, suitable jewelry must be worn, yes? Yet another reason to lose myself in the treasure chest that is Etsy...

My sister's pendant is by Sophiasparkles. Vintage brass and Scottish sea glass for the occasion, of course.

My chalcedonite and silver earrings are by Ivory Cove.
Images courtesy of Sophiasparkles and Ivory Cove.

Oh! Who can ever be tired of Bath! Part 2.

2011-07-22T07:10:00.002+03:00

"to proceed along the room was by no means the way to disengage themselves from the crowd; it seemed rather to increase as they went on, whereas she had imagined that when once fairly within the door, they should easily find seats and be able to watch the dances with perfect convenience. But this was far from being the case, and though by unwearied diligence they gained even the top of the room, their situation was just the same; they saw nothing of the dancers but the high feathers of some of the ladies."

The Assembly Rooms, or "Upper Rooms" in Jane Austen's time, were the number one place to be at night. Swirly menuets, graceful airs, with an interlude for tea and noisy chatter, filled the rooms, and the only way to talk to strangers was through proper introduction by a mutual acquaintance.
Today the Assembly Rooms are still as beautiful as ever, and can be booked for private events. The basement hosts an excellent Fashion Museum, with real pieces (not costumes): wedding dresses throughout the ages, Regency (Austen-style) dresses, Queen Victoria's mourning dresses, and half of the dress design books by Worth of Paris, the world's first fashion designer. It is easy to lose one afternoon in the midst of all the lace, silk, gloves, bonnets, and trains, modern fashion from the past century, and in the lovely shop.

The skyline of Bath is dominated by the Abbey, an impressive structure with lots of light. The Abbey could be a sibling of King's College chapel in Cambridge, with similar windows, a high fan ceiling, and lots of light. Both churches bear the mark of Henry VIII, however their fates were opposite: King's college chapel was finished by the monarch, while Bath Abbey dissolved by the same.

Finally, to wrap up with a few more tips for a few days' stay in lovely Bath:

San Francisco Fudge Factory: the creamiest fudge I have ever had. Clotted cream and Irish cream, yum... not to mention the caramel apples.
The Antique Map Shop on Pulteney Bridge. Find an authentic, antique map of Bath or your home country. No prints - all items are at least 100 years old.
Royal Victoria Park and the Botanical Gardens. Can you spot the California redwood trees?
If you, like me, love Jane Austen, swing by the Jane Austen center: it provides a look into the author's life, home towns, and the lives of her beloved characters.

Oh! Who can ever be tired of Bath! Part 1.

2011-07-20T13:54:00.012+03:00

A few weeks ago I spent three days wandering around the lovely streets of Bath. Just like Catherine from Jane Austen's Northanger Abbey I wonder, who can ever be tired of Bath?

"A fine Sunday in Bath empties every house of its inhabitants, and all the world appears on such an occasion to walk"

Sydney Gardens, open every day.

"they hastened away to the Crescent, to breathe the fresh air of better company"

This lovely piece of green pasture is marked on an old map as "never to be built upon". The Bath city layout is sprinkled with circles, squares, and crescents, and even contains one circus.

"They set off in good time for the Pump-room, where the ordinary course of events took place; Mr Allen, after drinking his glass of water, joined some gentlemen to talk over the politics of the day and compare the accounts of their news-papers; and the ladies walked about together, noticing every new face, and almost every new bonnet in the room"

The Pump Room is open for a delicious breakfast, lunch, or afternoon tea. Wander in at breakfast time, after 9.30 am, and the sunny room, with light tunes of violin and piano floating in the air, will be all yours. Try the spa water - it's not half as ill-tasting as in many other places. These are the "lower rooms" of Jane Austen, where ladies and gentlemen "took the waters", along with "Oliver bisquits" (delicious but heavy on calories), during the day, and enjoyed conversation and dance during the night.

"Edward has been pretty well this last week, and as the waters have never disagreed with him in any respect, we are inclined to hope he will derive advantage from them in the end"

The thermal waters of Bath bubble up from three springs in the Roman baths, over a million liters per day. The baths are beautifully restored and the excellent audio tour easily keeps your wandering around for 3 hours.

Hoping to dip your toes into the famous thermal water? Finally Bath has a spa again. The Cross bath, and the all-new Bath Thermae Spa, are located behind the Roman baths. Half a day just flows by in the hot thermal waters, aromatherapy steam rooms, spa treatments, lovely restaurant, and rooftop pool.

"“I could not tell whether you would be for some meat, or only a dish of tea, after your journey, or else I would have got something ready… Perhaps you would like some tea, as soon as it can be got.” They both declared they should prefer it to anything"

Afternoon tea in Bath is not to be had without the Bath Bun, or the Sally Lunn Bun. Fluffy and round, split in half, dripping with hot butter and brown sugar syrup with a hearty dash of cinnamon... the secret recipe and the tea room have served thirsty and hungry visitors for over 300 years, which I think Sally Lunn would have been very proud to know.

All quotes by Jane Austen (Northanger Abbey, Persuasion, personal letters).

Sun, rain, mud, horses, Pimm's, and a sea of hats

2011-06-20T13:01:00.011+03:00

One sunny Saturday, a busload of classmates headed out to the Ascot race course. As soon as we donned our heels and hats and grabbed our picnic boxes for a lunch in the car park (odd tradition) it began to rain. Pour. Bucketfuls of water from above diluted our Pimm's cocktails. Can it get more English than that? Oh yes, it can - walking to the race course over wet, muddy grass, in those aforementioned high heels...

The Queen and her entourage arrived in an open carriage, but true to her outdoorsy nature, she did walk around on the grass quite some that day.

The viewing building with its guest box balconies resembled a giant ocean liner.
My tiny, creme-silk-and-chocolate-pearls hat was made for me by the lovely Karen Lewis in Cambridge. The hat was topped with an adorable, curled feather which unfortunately did not fit the picture frame.
I believe the busload of business students betting for horses lost more than they won, but perhaps the opportunity cost was less than the delightful experience of the Royal Ascot races?

Top image courtesy of www.ascot.co.uk.

Weekend escape to London

2011-06-20T12:18:00.004+03:00

A few weeks ago I went down to London for a couple of days with my parents. It rained. And rained some more. And kept raining. Hence, no photos to show - sorry. Between the worst downpours we drifted from Oxford street all the way down to Chelsea and ended up having a light meal and a drink at the Pig's Ear, a scruffy but stylish neighborhood gastropub crowded by locals killing a rainy day. My asparagus salad was delicious but tiny, which is probably true for the rest of the items on the menu, except for a pig's ear which you can have for about one pound. The upstairs dining room is supposed to be pretty - but book in advance if you wish to see it.

If you, as I, are enchanted by peacock feathers, beauty, art for art's sake, and old-fashioned wallpapers, stop by at the Victoria & Albert Museum before July 18th to see the exhibition Cult of Beauty - the Aesthetic Movement 1860-1900.

We staid in the lovely, modern Marble Arch by Montcalm. The room was equipped with a bed suitable for the princess bruised by a pea, a huge rain shower, more light alternatives you could possibly need, an aromatherapy box and a good-sized assortment of chocolate and candy. Not bad for a lady tired after a whole day's walking. The sister hotel across the street offers "Ladies First" -rooms with hair styling equipment, Aqua di Parma bathroom amenities, fashion magazines, and complimentary massage - perfect for a ladies' weekend in London.

Up in the air

2011-06-07T05:51:00.000+03:00

Above the clouds there is no end of the rainbow.

Business as unusual

2011-06-05T17:21:00.002+03:00

Inspirational take away-messages from TEDx Oxbridge:

"How do we make ourselves good ancestors?"
(Alex Steffen)

"The more afraid we are, the more certain we need to be of uncertain things"
(Brene Brown)

"Most of our limitations today are due to imagination, not technology"
(Richard Seymour)

"If you chase two rabbits, both of them will escape"
(Andrea & Barry Coleman)

Picture postcard from The Other Place*

2011-05-30T23:22:00.011+03:00

Oxford is pretty in May. Spring sunlight renders the sandstone walls golden...
...and convinces the roses to invade the city.
Magdalen college and its deer pastures bathe in sunlight...
...but why does one of its ever-vigilant guards look so frightened?
Lunch at Quod brasserie was excellent, cream tea at the Grand Café absolutely lovely, and the Victorian collection of anthropological oddities at the Pitt Rivers museum simply bizarre. Who knew the Inuit used to make windbreakers from seal intestines?

*=traditional Oxford-Cambridge rivalry requires avoidance of the name of "the other place". This is somewhat silly, since Oxbridge schools also traditionally stand united to face the world.

Day on Eel Island

2011-05-27T08:52:00.008+03:00

Ely is a cute little town just northeast of Cambridge. Once it was an island and a mighty fort against invaders and conquerors - and surrounded by eels and marshland. Today the marshland, or Fenland, has been drained, and Ely is accompanied by nothing more than a little river. But the cathedral, oh, the cathedral is fit for a king...
No wonder the ending of the movie King's Speech was shot here. The throne is still on display.
A virtuous, "amiable Woman" rests in the church. Such a lovely epitaph.
Oliver Cromwell once lived in Ely, before he assembled his Modern Army, beheaded the King, and became Lord Protector of the Commonwealth. Cromwell's house is open as a museum, and for those who take the time to sit down in the kitchen, secrets from his wife's recipe book will be revealed.

Catch the market on either Thursday or Saturday. Those lucky could even catch a sight of the Cambridge blue boat crew on the river, training for their annual race against Oxford.

For a delicious lunch or dinner, there is the Boat House by the river, a modern but cozy place serving British food with a twist, as well as some Italian flavors. And lovely wines from Languedoc-Roussillon.

But whose favorite colors are bright red and moss green?

A forest in my room - or my room in a forest?

2011-05-25T08:31:00.002+03:00

Birds of paradise, cocoa, and palm trees? Perhaps I have staid in a Victorian house too long...
Woods, Tropical Birds, Palm Tree, and Cocoa, all from Cole & Son.

Victorian wallpaper

2011-05-23T09:25:00.002+03:00

The rumor at Newnham college is that some - or all - of the wallpapers are original designs by Victorian artist, textile designer, and writer William Morris (Bird & Anemone - top left; Acorn - bottom left; Sunflower - bottom right). Perfect for sunbathed, spacious girls' college corridors.

Beautiful Newnham

2011-05-21T20:34:00.006+03:00

The beauty of Newnham college is hidden behind brick walls - girls need to be protected from the outside world. But enter through the gates...
...and you are welcomed by roses, peonies, squirrels, and majestic red-brick buildings. And sometimes the faint melody of a flute or violin drifting through an open window.

There is true beauty on the inside, too. Winding stairs...
...and Victorian wallpaper by William Morris...
...and less winding stairs...
...and sunlight...
...and the ghost of a 19th century curly-haired girl in a pastel-colored muslin dress, reading a love letter by the window...

Summer

2011-05-14T06:32:00.000+03:00

Rope bracelet by Kiel James Patrick and heart, flip flop & dragonfly charms by Tiffany & Co.

Sparkling starfish, silvery sea shells, and pretty little diamonds

2011-05-12T10:22:00.002+03:00

While working on my previous post, I found out that scents and books are not the only things India Hicks has designed. The island girl is also launching three jewelry collections, and the Island Life collection is especially beautiful. Starfish, fish tails, and coral, in silver, diamonds, and mother of pearl... How lovely! Unfortunately I have not yet found information on where these pretties are sold.

Island living by India

2011-05-10T21:58:00.012+03:00

If your father was a famous interior designer and grandfather was the last viceroy of India, and if Prince Charles was your godfather, and if you had to hold up princess Diana's wedding train when you were just a little girl, what would people expect of your life? Would they expect you to go to a Swiss finishing school, marry a count, and settle down? Or would you trek around the world for a year, become a photographer, do extreme sports, become a model, work for charity, and retreat to the Bahamas to be inspired to create beautiful things?

Island girl India Hicks did. Inspired by pure, simple living on the Bahamas, she created two pretty little collections for Crabtree & Evelyn. Island Living is sun, salt, and sand in a bottle...
...whereas Island Night is warm, velvety, flower-infused tropical darkness...
If the ocean feels far away, why not get a little, sea-scented Treasure box with seashells and surprises?

Top image courtesy of India Hicks and The Tory Burch Blog.

English fern and Elizabethan rose

2011-05-06T20:07:00.005+03:00

In Victorian and Edwardian days, perfumes did not sell dreams, but memories. Orange blossom and lime for summers in Italy, violet for summer picnics, lavender and spice for christmas, and rose for mother, sister, or loved other. The scents were uncomplicated, honest, and made from high-quality, natural ingredients for a long-lasting effect. I so love purity and simplicity...

In 1860s, a Cornish barber named William Penhaligon moved to London, opened a shop, and became court barber and perfumer of Queen Victoria. Some of his original scents are still sold today, such as the lovely, warm, and mysterious Hammam Bouquet. Penhaligon's has retained its concept until today, and the little glass bottles, engraved silver candle votives, and pretty accessories make the shop an irresistible experience.
Summer has finally found its way to Cambridge, and I thirsted for a fresh, green, summery scent. At Penhaligon's I found Quercus, which is surprisingly sold as a unisex, something I would not usually choose. I do love it... as I loved Violetta and Malabah, and a few other. I may have to return soon...

Phanom Rung

2011-05-04T13:03:00.004+03:00

And I remember.
The stones.
The grass green, straggly,
the jungle cut back
the mile-long corridors of chiseled stone
crossing at right angles,
the silence,
the loneliness,
the wondering
who built this and why?

- Jan Haag

Bamboo School

2011-05-02T22:57:00.005+03:00

In the tropics, walls are unnecessary. At the Mechai Pattana School in Buriram province, Thailand, walls would keep inspiration and transparency away.
In the bamboo school, children decide what topics are covered, and who is given the privilege to equip them for a life where poverty has no place.
Where water is scarce, it should be stored. And waterlilies should be added for beauty.
According to the laws of karma, reward must be earned, and nothing is for free. Besides, tending the canteen gardens and hunting for free-range eggs is fun.
There is no excuse not to grow one's own vegetables. No space? Go vertical.
No pots? Make them from old shoes, if necessary. Try chives, celery, and mushrooms in huts. Or, if you are Thai, keep crickets. The kids graduating from the Mechai Pattana School are prepared to spot the opportunity and seize the moment. The journey that lies ahead for them surely will be exciting.

Bits of Bangkok

2011-04-28T08:14:00.001+03:00

Scent of jasmine, tingle of buddhist bells, whiff of street food, flash of tuk-tuk lights, but above all, incessant heat, noise, bustle, life, and something else. Bangkok truly never sleeps.

Escape to Koh Samet

2011-04-26T08:16:00.000+03:00

Beautiful little Koh Samet is famous for its crystal-white beaches. No wonder everything happens on the beach... literally. Restaurants sprawl out on the sand, and instead of chairs they offer divans and bean bags. Photos of Koh Samet from 20 years back show beaches lined with coconut trees. Who ever got in their head to cut them down?? Such a shame. The seafood is excellent, and so are the pina coladas.
The whole island is a national park, aside from its most popular beaches. Steep elevation and heavy rain shape roads useless twice a year. The only way to navigate the mud and potholes is by 4-weel drive...in a pickup truck taxi or songkaew. Beware of your back, butt, and luggage.
We staid at Vong Duean beach (also spelled Wong Duean, Vongdeuan, or anything similar... no rules exist for Thai transliteration...), the second largest beach on Samet. Rows of independent resorts and bungalows populate the beach. Our pick was Vongdeuan resort and a traditional-style Thai chalet. Even the reception is by the beach. Next door stands an open-air beauty and massage parlor, perfect to pop in for a foot massage between pina coladas and sunbathing sessions. For parties, head to Hat Sai Kaew beach, and for total solitude to Ao Kiew, the southmost tip of the island.
Koh Samet is just 4 hours from Bangkok, by bus to Rayong, songthaew to Ban Phe, and boat to the island. The perfect weekend escape.

Songkhran by the Chao Praya river

2011-04-24T08:40:00.001+03:00

There is music in the air everywhere at Millennium Hilton Bangkok.
The recently built hotel is a quiet, beautiful haven in the middle of dust, heat, traffic, and gleaming sunlight. With 4 restaurants and a spa it is the perfect escape.
No wonder the Finnair crew rests here...and so did we, after a month-long NGO project that took us from the poorest regions to the most decadent resorts.
Songkhran renders westerners especially coveted targets for water guns and bucketfuls of river water. Jazz & cocktails in the 360 bar on the top floor was a perfect way to cool off after a day's waterfight with the locals.

Afternoon tea at the Oriental hotel

2011-04-22T12:32:00.006+03:00

"I was in Bangkok. It is impossible to consider these populous modern cities of the East without a certain malaise. Painters have not painted them. No poets, transfiguring dead bricks and mortar with their divine nostalgia, have given them a tremulous nostalgia not their own . . . But when you leave them it is with a feeling that you have missed something and you cannot help thinking that they have some secret that they have kept from you."

-Somerset Maugham

White rattan and elephant prints, bamboo stretching towards the ceiling, elegant waitresses in Thai silk... The Authors' Wing of the Oriental hotel is like a cool and welcoming garden.
The Oriental has inspired many a story by famous authors, and also a random act of kindness: a mysterious, wonderful lady paid for our afternoon tea and left before we could thank her. Perhaps by another act of randomness you are reading this: our most sincere thanks.

Lady Cassandra

2011-01-18T07:42:00.000+02:00

I received greetings from back home. A cold, wet nose and a pink tongue, close-up.

Image courtesy by fromadifferentangle.net.

Dutch doors

2011-01-16T07:55:00.000+02:00

Dutch details

2011-01-14T08:51:00.001+02:00

After 11 years there are still things to be discovered among the old houses in my husband's Dutch home town...

Silk art by Hermès

2011-01-12T10:16:00.003+02:00

Although this is not a fashion blog, I would like to share with you one of my all-time favorite brands. I confess I admire the brand of Hermès - a blend of luxurious but simple designs, with a flair of exotic countries and bohemian chique. It is perfectly aligned with my travel-smitten minimalist spirit. Functional design is combined with safari excursions of times gone past, and reflected in everything from scents and leatherware to scarves. Hermès used to be mainly a saddlemaker, which is still recognizable in leather craftsmanship and scarf motifs.

The silk scarves are why I want to mention Hermés in a design blog. Since 1937, over 2500 designs have been made, and some require silk screen prints of up to 43 layers. Each scarf is signed by the designer and takes up to two years to design. Motifs range from the ever-popular, classical equestrian to exotic sights and military. The design of each scarf requires much work and the designer is credited, making Hermés scarves popular collectibles.

To me, scarves are associated with images from my childhood - my mother used to wear them often especially in the eighties. I recently found out she has once paid a business visit to the factory, where she saw the silk-screen printing processes live. Visiting the factory would be lovely - perhaps my graphic/printing-expert husband could be convinced to take a detour next time we are in France?

Unfortunately, to my knowledge Hermés products cannot be purchased in Finland at the moment (Stockmann used to hold at least fragrances), due to the lack of an importer. Fortunately for me there is a Hermés in both London and Amsterdam, as well as Heathrow airport. :c)

Scarf depicted: "Goucho", design 1978 by Cathy Latham.

Holland as it was in times gone by

2011-01-10T00:03:00.000+02:00

Holland was covered in a blanket of snow and mist. Just like it used to be 30-50 years ago, according to those who remember the time before climate change. Strap on your skates and jump out through the window onto the frozen canal.
Photo: courtesy of www.arnoenzerink.com
Painting: Winter landscape with a bird trap, by Pieter Bruegel; image courtesy of Wikipedia.

Rocks, ravens, and bloody times past

2011-01-08T08:57:00.002+02:00

The Tower of London on a rainy day is a grim experience. It is easy to forget that charity, respect of integrity, and the worth of a human life are values of a fleeting moment. Compared to centuries of penitentiary tradition where decapitation and the most incredible forms of torture were executed, the current Western moral code seems like an anomaly. The royals were in danger by their mere existence: failing to produce a male heir sent Anne Boleyn under the axe, and the two children of Edward IV were discovered buried under a staircase, probably courtesy of Richard III.
Ravens have inhabited the Tower for centuries. According to a legend their departure will be followed by a collapse of the monarchy and Britain. How very symbolic to the human need for control that the ravens inhabiting the Tower today have had their wings clipped...

London Bridge is, however, still standing.

Irish tea in a Finnish cup

2011-01-06T22:51:00.006+02:00

And so fall passed... and I am still alive. Cambridge has been an amazing experience so far. I have survived the toughest bootcamp in my life so far - given that I survive next week's four exams.

Christmas and new year flew by in London, Finland, and Holland - photos to follow. First, I would like to settle down and enjoy some hot and strong Whittard of Chelsea Irish Breakfast tea in my new cup, a christmas present from mommy dear. The cup and saucer are part of the Oiva tableware series by Marimekko, with cup featuring the Siirtolapuutarha textile print by Maija Louekari (fountain pen by Lamy).

Happy 2011 to my dear readers. May your hopes and wishes come true, and may the year bring many pleasant surprises.

In Grantchester

2010-10-11T23:51:00.005+03:00

"Stands the church clock at ten-to-three
And is there honey still for tea?"

Take half an hour's leisurely walk along the Granta river and through Grantchester meadows, and you come to the lush, peaceful village of Grantchester and its enchanted Orchard Tea Garden. Favorite of many a scientist and writer, including Rupert Brooke, Lord Byron, and Virginia Woolf, it still serves English cream tea and lunches in deck chairs under the apple trees, as it did 100 years ago when the poet Brooke wrote the lines above, full of homesick longing to Grantchester. Punting excursions to Grantchester have remained a favorite pastime of the students ever since.

Of modern poets, Pink Floyd was also struck by the beauty of Grantchester Meadows:

"See the splashing
Of the kingfisher flashing to the water
And a river of green is sliding
Unseen beneath the trees
Laughing as it passes
Through the endless summer"

Image courtesy of Wikipedia.

Newnham college

2010-09-28T01:51:00.004+03:00

Newnham is my college, a Victorian creation, and the only girls' college left in Cambridge. Although, I do not study here, and I live just outside of the gates in a Victorian-style house owned by the college. But it IS my college by affiliation, and where I will matriculate in just two weeks. Wearing a gown, by golly. I even had to buy a fountain pen because a "biro", British for ballpoint, is not acceptable. ;c)

Enter through the gates...

... into a beautiful, Victorian-style garden, with flowers blooming in unruly flowerbeds...

little park benches scattered around, and squirrels fervently collecting nuts for the winter.

Hunters by the fire

2010-09-24T08:38:00.001+03:00

Original Wellington boots by a fireplace in my room. How very English. Together with my pink raincoat I am ready to tackle the local winter.

Fitzbillies buns and Jamie's treats

2010-09-21T08:07:00.001+03:00

Earlier this year, Jamie's Italian opened in Cambridge. Compared to the one in Oxford it is quite different: instead of a chique, modern, cozy restaurant this one is a large, noisy, old-fashioned hall, which reminds me of a restaurant in Paris. But the food, oh, the food... Jamie Oliver's style is close to my personal liking: no 5-hour reductiion sauces or 12-hour stews, but simple, quick creations from good-quality, fresh ingredients. Although I do think the chefs forgot the salt from my squid ink angelhair pasta with scallops, and parmiggiano would have been nice, too, also on my husband's truffle pasta. But the lovely starters and desserts saved the meal: rice balls with smoked mozzarella and mushrooms with arrabbiata sauce, sweet mini peppers stuffed with tuna, anchovy, and and capers, and a lemon curd cake and tiramisu to finish... need I say more?

If your sweet tooth still aches, here is the real deal:
Sticky, syrupy, sweet, and garnered with currants is the Chelsea bun by Fitzbillies cake shop in Cambridge. The recipe is over 80 years old and the blessing of the foreigner is that the buns travel well - and can therefore be shipped worldwide. According to connoisseurs, no Chelsea bun is a Chelsea bun if it is not made by Fitzbillies. If you are lucky to live in the UK you can order yourself or your friend a year's supply of buns: Fitzbillies will send a box with four buns each month, and the buns can be frozen upon arrival. Gently warmed with ice cream is a suggestion by Fitzbillies which I will have to try out soon.

Images by Fitzbillies and Jamie's Italian.

In the streets of Cambridge

2010-09-18T19:57:00.003+03:00

Afternoon tea with scones, decent pubs, cold houses with single-glazed windows, and traffic on the left side. I am truly in England. The colleges I have visited are magnificent, the tea is good, the food is bland, and people are friendly.

I hope you enjoy these few vistas of the streets of Cambridge. I have some tidbits coming up later, too.
Punts on a beautiful day. Just add a parasol, a bottle of champagne or a jug of Pimms No. 1, and a book of poetry.

St. John's college was undergoing renovation, as was, unfortunately...

... Trinity college, as well. To be revisited at a later time.

A room of one's own

2010-09-11T22:18:00.003+03:00

Dear, hopefully not too estranged readers, this is it. On Monday I will be moving to Cambridge for a rough year, perhaps a little longer. I intend to grab a pen and paper, and a financial calculator, and become a student again, although this time in business administration. Long days, short nights, term papers, team presentations, networking, and perhaps a little rowing and social life on the side will provide a busy year. Leaving my own condominium apartment and moving into a college graduate house room will be a challenge. Leaving science and entering industry will certainly be another challenge. Having almost no income will be yet another challenge and requires some revising of personal shopping habits. Although I have confirmed that Cambridge has both a Lush and a Rituals shop, as well as a Jamie Oliver restaurant, so I should be fine.

Now... where are my wellies, umbrella, and rain coat? Living in a Victorian-era house will most likely also call for lots of wool and flannel... and good, English tea.

Midsummer in the country

2010-07-02T09:05:00.000+03:00

Last weekend the Nordic countries celebrated midsummer, light, and life. Our traditional midsummer consisted of two days in a lovely villa in the Finnish outer archipelago, and one day at the country cottage. Sparkling wine, fresh apple juice, seafood, barbeque, fresh flowers, butterflies, and sunshine...

Strawberries and cream, a.k.a. Eton mess

2010-06-30T11:13:00.002+03:00

Strawberries, cream, and meringue combined is a classical, English dessert dish, also known as Eton mess. Perhaps it refers to the consistency, which indeed is a mess, but ah, so delicious. Eton mess is naturally served at Eton College, during an annual cricket game. In our family, the recipe has been introduced by my mother and sister, who modified the recipe from Nigella Lawson's book Nigella Express. I adopted the recipe and modified it further, and here is my version of this summery dessert, easy enough to whip together for a picnic or a dessert at the summer cottage.

For a dessert for four persons, take one liter of strawberries and mash about half of them. Stir through a little sugar and leave in room temperature, preferably for a few hours, to draw out the juice and develop the flavors. After a while, the scent of good quality strawberries will be almost overpowering. Cut the remaining strawberries in half.

Whip 2 dl double cream until pretty stiff. Stir through 1-2 dl vanilla curd and the mashed strawberries. Add a good helping of crumbled meringue, both good-sized chunks and small crumble. I use a crispy, completely dry cake layer meringue which stays crispy. The kind that is moist in the center tends to melt into the mess. ;c) Stir through half of the halved strawberries and decorate with the remaining strawberries.

Nigella's original recipe can be viewed here.

Image courtesy of Nigella.com.

Summer in Amsterdam

2010-06-28T22:43:00.004+03:00

Greetings from Holland. After not visiting it for over a year, a week's holiday was welcome. Amsterdam was in summer mode, with tourist crowds, channels laced with green, and sunlight glittering on the water. A tip for a tourist with a few hours to spare: visit the Tropenmuseum, which presents the cultures, art, and trade of many tropical countries, especially those that once functioned as Dutch colonies.

While at Schiphol airport, do visit the Bubbles wine & seafood bar. The oysters, herring, salmon, and tapas, with a glass of wine or champagne, make a delicious, light lunch or snack. Finish off with a cup of coffee or tea and a chunk of chocolate (yes, chunk!) from adjacent Café Chocolat.

Bricks, vines, and trimmed hedges

2010-05-23T00:01:00.001+03:00

It really does seem to be true: Cambridge is calling in September. But can this beautiful place really be my home, while I'm not at school? Expect much pictures of magnificent English university architecture in the future.

Image courtesy of Wikipedia.

Waiting for the rain

2010-05-20T23:20:00.002+03:00

One and a half week of heatwave is forecasted to end soon. In wait for the rain and a glorious thunderstorm...

May = more asparagus

2010-05-11T10:18:00.003+03:00

Yet another less usual way to make asparagus, inspired by the lovely foodie blog Pastanjauhantaa. After slight modification, I made the dish as follows:

Cook white asparagus but leave it al dente. In the meantime, mix the salad: a bunch of chopped chives, another bunch of chopped parsley, two hard-boiled, cubed eggs, a handful of sunflower seeds (or pine seeds), a good helping of olive oil, some oak-aged, old balsamico, and sea salt and cracked black pepper.

Arrange the asparagus on the plate and pile the salad on top. Serve with a risotto on the side, seasoned with for example lemon juice, parsley, and a hint of sage.

Dirty laundry on Wisteria Lane

2010-05-08T08:24:00.000+03:00

I know what I will do this summer. Too bad these were not available in Blu-Ray. You won't be surprised to learn that preppy, neurotic Bree is my favorite.

Once upon a time in Marrakesh...

2010-05-05T08:10:00.000+03:00

One lovely olive grove in Marrakesh, Morocco, now hosts an even lovelier boutique hotel. Peacock Pavilions is finally open, after years of toil. For those who are not familiar with the thrilling, emotional, fairy dust-scattered tale of Maryam and the quest of her life, visit her blog at My Marrakesh. Peacock Pavilions will also host a Moroccan interior and lifestyle shop. For now, wonderful silverware, Moroccan slippers, and handwoven wedding blankets can be bought through the blog.

Images courtesy of Peacock Pavilions

Rituals from Holland

2010-05-02T08:17:00.000+03:00

Yet another post about Dutch Rituals, one of my favorite cosmetic, home, and wellness brands. A sweet friend rescued me from disaster by helping me stock up on some home and body essentials. The two aerosol cans are actually shower foam, with heavenly scents of cherry blossom, rice milk, and green tea.

April = asparagus!

2010-04-28T18:20:00.003+03:00

Every year spring seems to truly begin with asparagus season. And every year the recipes seem much alike: steamed asparagus with hollandaise or a similar sauce, accompanied with sauvignon blanc or pinot gris wine. These classical combinations certainly deserve to be mentioned, but my personal favorite is perhaps a little less orthodox:

Steam or fry the asparagus, or even better, barbeque it if the weather allows. The two latter methods result in a lovely crispy texture. Add a sprinkle of lime and serve with garlic-lime-mayonnaise dip and a poached egg sprinkled with sea salt and cracked black pepper. Poach the egg in barely boiling water spiked with a dash of white vinegar to keep the egg together while simmering. Although I prefer a 4-minute egg, 5 minutes result in a medium-soft yolk that might be a safer option when serving dinner guests without knowledge of their preference.

And instead of the sauvignon blanc and pinot gris, I encourage you to try a dry Grüner Veltliner white wine from Austria. Pick one that is a little on the mineral side in flavor.

Married life with one Dutchman and two Italians

2010-04-26T07:29:00.002+03:00

Perhaps you remember my account of our troublesome stretch down marriage road? We sleep next to bedside tables every night, and approximately every second morning they will be the first thing we see when we open our eyes. Therefore, bedside tables are important. Right? Right??

Well, it took us two years to find suitable bedside tables and here they are. I cite my husband, who calls them "ondingen", nuisances. After extensive negotiations, we had settled for the QBO Modular Box in aluminum and sanded glass by Graepel. Unfortunately, they are no longer imported to Finland due to low demand. My husband thought the silver, round Componibilis by Kartell were simply silly. However, one day a friend of ours was preparing to move abroad and needed to get rid of our furniture. The Componibilis had to be rescued. It was my duty. Right? Right??

Along came a stack of bestsellers, many of which I would not have read on my own account. But life is full of curious surprises: my husband seems to sleep well next to a Componibili, and I plan to open a Grisham or a Crichton book one night soon.

New views and slow desperation

2010-04-24T13:05:00.004+03:00

These are our beautiful views for the coming two months. Note the balcony that no longer is. How wonderful to wake up in the morning to banging, clanking, and contractors standing outside my livingroom window. Cassandra the cat is taking the situation very seriously: she has licked a bald spot on her leg and is now on calming drugs. I have been considering equipping her with a catnip collar - that way she can be high 24/7 and life will be a dance. But who will restore my peace of mind by kindly fixing me and my husband some lucy in the sky with diamonds?

Express mocha

2010-04-11T08:48:00.000+03:00

My mother's three-cup Moka Express has been inhabiting the back corner of a shelf ever since I moved out and into my own home. Finally the time came when the poor thing was dusted off and filled with Italian powdery coffee. Blub and slurp and ssshhh, and two cups of some seriously strong mocha were poured into little, golden espresso cups. The stove also received its share - apparently the rubber isolation ring gave up a long time ago. A new ring has been ordered from the Finnish online shop Crema.fi, and along tagged also a pack of Neapolitan coffee.
The original aluminum Bialetti percolator has been made since the 1930s and belongs to my childhood memories: bubbling coffee on an old stove and the aroma of freshly brewed Italian or French roast. I recently discovered that my sister has the six-cup pan. With future dinner parties in mind, perhaps she could be bribed to switch...

Paws

2010-04-09T00:18:00.000+03:00

Cassandra's ladylike pose.

The hidden gem of Africa

2010-04-07T10:50:00.001+03:00

Deep in African Zululand lies the Ntingwe tea estate. Discovered by Taylor's of Harrogate tea company approximately 20 years ago, this estate produces the tea known as Ntingwe Kwazulu. There's something summery about the flavor, like a flush of fresh, green grass on the palate. To no surprise, this tea appears to be favored among the British tea connoisseurs. And most importantly, according to this Zululand tourism site, the formerly poor area of Kwazulu-Natal and its tea farmers now thrive from the tea trade. Ntingwe Kwazulu tea can be bought online at Taylor's of Harrogate.

Image courtesy of Taylor's of Harrogate.

Private dancer

2010-04-05T00:12:00.001+03:00

Turning the leaf

2010-04-03T16:59:00.004+03:00

Could it be true? Could I find myself in Cambridge in September? Walking the streets of the old town, feeding the ducks at the river, spending a Sunday afternoon in an English tea room or strolling around ancient colleges? Could I leave my research scientist's career and become a business woman?

Impossible worlds

2010-03-30T11:17:00.001+03:00

It is not the spoon that bends, it is only yourself. (The Matrix)

Wishing to twist your mind? To be lost in doubt of what you actually see? Visit the Impossible Worlds exhibition by Dutch M. C. Escher at the Amos Anderson museum in Helsinki. Open until end of May.

Green eyes

2010-03-27T17:46:00.006+02:00

The girl with the green eyes. The girl who stopped the viewer in his tracks, challenged, and blamed. She, who with her fierce eyes became the face of the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan. Everybody knew her, but not even the photographer, Steve McCurry, knew who she really was when he took her portrait in Pakistan in the early 1980s. Seventeen years later, McCurry decided to find her - and succeeded, which lead to another captivating story in the National Georaphic magazine and can be read here. This tale was one of the main themes of the talk he gave in Helsinki for photographers, along with stories of his life-journey viewed through the lens. Hearing the stories from my husband, I wished I could have attended the seminar, as well.

However, the McCurry retrospective exhibition is showing at the old train stables in Salo. The exhibition is a must-see for fans of travel photography, or for anyone wishing to be blown away by vibrant colors, exotic landscapes, and captivating portraits, all sharing an intensity characteristic to McCurry's work. The retrospective can be viewed at the Salo Art Museum until May 2nd.

Sprinkled shots / Oregon part III

2010-03-22T12:33:00.000+02:00

Last but not least: a medley of impressions from my husband's camera (a brand new one, boy was he happy!)

Hippie Portland / Oregon part II

2010-03-18T22:10:00.013+02:00

Have you ever felt that some cities instantly welcome you with a warm, friendly glow? It is as if a mutual contact is established between visitor and city, whereas other cities remain silent or even withdrawn. A welcoming city gives an instant feeling of belonging, and on the second day it almost feels like home. To me, Portland turned out to be such a city. The mix of artsy, older houses and modern ones, the hippie feel on the streets, urban art peeking around every corner and behind every park bench, street cars, the gorgeous Willamette river, and a constant, leisurely buzz are sufficient to welcome any tourist looking for a relaxed atmosphere. Even if I love Paris, New York, and other fashion capitals where just standing on the street gives a healthy dose of eye-candy, Portlanders' trekking boots, heaps of fleece, and Columbia all-weatherproof coats were endearing. No need for high-heeled boots or well-cut jackets, but this does not mean one cannot shop couture and lovely accessories at Pioneer Place shopping center. Or visit the Tiffany & Co. store for more charm bracelet trinkets, for that matter... (ahem)

Oregon is rough, rainy, and beautiful. Outdoor sports are popular, and appropriate gear for every activity can be found at very good deals at REI. Portland is also home to Columbia Sportswear and its sub-aquired brands Sorel and Mountain Hardwear - expect very good deals compared to European prices. And when the rain hits, you can hit Powell's World of Books, a large, factory-like building with room after room of books, vintage and new. Bookworms, feel free to get lost. If you do find yourself again, take deep breath and sit down at World Cup Coffee, the adjacent coffee shop where - yes indeed - you can bring books you are browsing but have not bought yet. The freshly ground coffee is always organic and sustainably produced, and the origins of the beans are clearly marked.

The Tea Zone and Camellia Lounge was also a pleasant experience, and the Thai-inspired Bubble teas another pleasant encounter. When hunger surfaces, Brasserie Montmartre is a charming fine dining restaurant with a Parisian feel. The Happy Hour tradition in Portland includes light meals from the menu at reduced prices, and the three dollar green salad I had at Montmartre was an experience. I believe the dressing was based on lemon and honey, and infused with shallot. Simply lovely with a crisp Sauvignon blanc. For dinner were given a true treat at Caffé Mingo, a cute little bistro with fresh and lovely Italian food. For a drink, all-organic fine dining, or relaxed jazz jamming, head to cozy, old-world-elegant Wilf's Restaurant by the train station.

Portland has two sides: west side and east side of the river. Unfortunately our two-day visit confined us very much on the west side, except for a quick dinner at a curious and charming Mexican restaurant east side of the river. Guess that gives us a good reason to come back?

Rainy, raging coastlines / Oregon, part I

2010-03-15T20:06:00.013+02:00

And so it was off to Portland, Oregon, and a hop onto the legendary Coast Starlight train that runs between Seattle and Los Angeles. The first class services offered include a lounge car equipped with a library, children's movie theater, wine tasting, and complimentary drinks. Old-time rail travel luxury does make an overnight trip tempting. However, our stop was Eugene...
...where we were greeted by a monument with wise words of life and optimism.
Eugene was a night stopover only, and the following day our friends drove us through the amazingly lush and gorgeous Umpqua valley to Coos Bay on the coast.
Sea shell collecting and beach combing at Sunset Beach and Bullards Beach were complimented by a visit to the little oceanside town of Bandon, and its candy factory shop CranBerry Sweets with its handmade cranberry and fruit chocolates and jellies. Lemon merengue with white chocolate is heaven. I must also confess I am a (by circumstances) recovering addict of Bandon Sweets and Treats Seafoam chocolate.
The coast of Oregon offers enough to explore for a month: wild rivers, beaches, whale watching, quaint towns...
...and if you wander far enough, you end up in California, surrounded by the most magnificent coastal redwood trees in Redwood National and Jedediah Smith State Parks. A good place to stay is the Ravenwood Motel in Klamath, offering neat, modern, uniquely decorated and well-equipped rooms, as well as a hearty breakfast and excellent service at a very affordable rate.

But the trees, oh, the trees... (can you see me in the picture below?)
Oregon is an active winemaking region and known for its pinot noirs which resemble the lighter, gentle old world kind more than the pompous, seductive Californian pinots. Most of the pinot noir is grown upstate due to the cooler climate, and other grapes favoring warmer climate can be cultivated in the southern part. The Umpqua Valley is said to act as a climate divide, making a large variety of grapes and wine types possible. Melrose Vineyards seduced with a lovely Viognier and a wonderful Parker Pinot noir, as did the Brandborg Winery Pinot gris.

After a day's wine touring we ended up at HillCrest vineyards, which boasts to be the oldest estate winery in Oregon. It takes pride in European-style winemaking, but not without a twist. The Zinfandel Cuvee 1888 is a good example: the grapes are treated Amarone-style and dried in the sun before winemaking, just like the Italian grape varietals used for Amarone wine. Surprisingly, this very "wrong" way of handling the Zinfandel grape results in a delightful wine with Amarone-like notes. I was also offered to taste a blush pinot noir currently in the barrel and being treated like a chardonnay. Two years from being ready to drink and it was already delicious.

We wished we could have stayed longer, but Portland and a friend awaited. More on the surprisingly charming city will follow. :c)

Greetings from Keystone

2010-03-13T21:33:00.003+02:00

Blue skies, golden sun, and white snow...
...and snowshoeing...
...and fondue dinners...
...but most of all, peace and quiet in the wintery forest.

Rockies & Pacific Northwest

2010-02-28T11:55:00.000+02:00

Snow - chance snow - snow likely - blizzard... Weather forecast variants for Keystone, Colorado, where I will be sharpening my mind at a conference.

Then, a quick switch of snow gear to rain gear for a week at the Oregon coast. See you in a couple of weeks. :c)

Images courtesy of Keystone Resort and Wikipedia.

Quick peek into Cambridge

2010-02-26T18:50:00.004+02:00

Punts at the water...
...of river Cam...
...strolling around Trinity college...
...among other colleges...
...quaint alleys...
...peeking through the window of the University Press...
...and making haste to catch the train to Heathrow and the evening flight back home.

An afternoon in Oxford

2010-02-25T11:33:00.001+02:00

Walking along the Thames...
...just nearby Christ Church college...
...stopping by to adore the courtyard of the magnificent, medieval Balliol college...
...and its fine Hall...
...overwhelmed by the Bodleian Library...
...and its collection...
...strolling in the heart of old Oxford...
...inspecting the most unusual equipment at the Museum of the History of Science...
...and dining at Jamie Oliver's lovely restaurant Jamie's Italian.

Off to Oxbridge

2010-02-24T06:47:00.000+02:00

Spires, parks, brick-roads, old bicycles, magnificent architecture...I have quickly dashed to England for a few days, very excited to visit both Oxford and Cambridge. Wish me luck.

Image courtesy of Wikipedia.org.

Books of pretension? Perhaps not, after all...

2010-02-23T13:19:00.002+02:00

One and a half years ago, I wrote about a list of books considered classical masterpieces that nobody seems to care to read. It holds 106 books most frequently marked unread by Library Thing users. Out of curiosity, I bought a few. I read them and liked all of them. Then I bought a few more. And a couple more. And just a few more. And I loved all of them - how most unusual! This list offers all kinds of books, the kind I would never read, such as the over-hailed Time Traveler's Wife (which turned out to possibly be the most touching book I have ever read), and a couple of works by Neil Gaiman (American Gods - very Stephen King-esque). I have discovered I will not be requiring another reading list for a few more years to come.

Oh yes, 39 read so far. :c)

1. Jonathan Strange & Mr Norrell
2. Anna Karenina
3. Crime and Punishment
4. Catch-22
5. One Hundred Years of Solitude
6. Wuthering Heights
7. The Silmarillion
8. Life of Pi
9. The Name of the Rose
10. Don Quixote
11. Moby Dick
12. Ulysses
13. Madame Bovary
14. The Odyssey
15. Pride and Prejudice
16. Jane Eyre
17. The Tale of Two Cities
18. The Brothers Karamazov
19. Guns, Germs, and Steel: the fates of human societies
20. War and Peace
21. Vanity Fair
22. The Time Traveler’s Wife
23. The Iliad
24. Emma
25. The Blind Assassin
26. The Kite Runner (does the movie count?)
27. Mrs. Dalloway
28. Great Expectations
29. American Gods
30. A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius
31. Atlas Shrugged
32. Reading Lolita in Tehran : a memoir in books
33. Memoirs of a Geisha
34. Middlesex
35. Quicksilver
36. Wicked : the life and times of the wicked witch of the West
37. The Canterbury Tales
38. The Historian : a novel
39. A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man
40. Love in the Time of Cholera
41. Brave New World
42. The Fountainhead
43. Foucault’s Pendulum
44. Middlemarch
45. Frankenstein
46. The Count of Monte Cristo
47. Dracula
48. A Clockwork Orange
49. Anansi Boys
50. The Once and Future King
51. The Grapes of Wrath
52. The Poisonwood Bible : a novel
53. 1984
54. Angels & Demons
55. The Inferno
56. The Satanic Verses
57. Sense and Sensibility
58. The Picture of Dorian Gray
59. Mansfield Park
60. One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest
61. To the Lighthouse
62. Tess of the D'Urbervilles
63. Oliver Twist
64. Gulliver’s Travels
65. Les Misérables
66. The Corrections
67. The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier and Clay
68. The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time
69. Dune
70. The Prince
71. The Sound and the Fury
72. Angela’s Ashes : a memoir
73. The God of Small Things
74. A People’s History of the United States : 1492-present
75. Cryptonomicon
76. Neverwhere
77. A Confederacy of Dunces
78. A Short History of Nearly Everything
79. Dubliners
80. The Unbearable Lightness of Being
81. Beloved
82. Slaughterhouse-Five
83. The Scarlet Letter (seen the movie though)
84. Eats, Shoots & Leaves
85. The Mists of Avalon
86. Oryx and Crake : a novel
87. Collapse: how societies choose to fail or succeed
88. Cloud Atlas
89. The Confusion
90. Lolita
91. Persuasion
92. Northanger Abbey
93. The Catcher in the Rye
94. On the Road
95. The Hunchback of Notre Dame
96. Freakonomics : a rogue economist explores the hidden side of everything
97. Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance : an inquiry into values
98. The Aeneid
99. Watership Down
100. Gravity's Rainbow
101. The Hobbit
102. In Cold Blood : a true account of a multiple murder and its consequences
103. White Teeth
104. Treasure Island
105. David Copperfield
106. The Three Musketeers

Befriending Stu (or was it stew?)

2010-02-20T07:06:00.002+02:00

Last week I happened to catch an episode of Tyler's Ultimate on television. Chef Tyler Florence chooses one traditional dish and spends an episode traveling around the world to learn about the origins and methods to cook this dish. This episode presented a classic completely overlooked by vegetarian me: the stew. Surely stew must be all about tender, off-the-bone-falling meat? Perhaps meat plays an important part, but stew would be nothing without vegetables, right? So I decided to give it a try and to brew a stew without the meat.

Winter is the season for stew vegetables. We swung by the farm shop Maatilapuoti in Kirkkonummi and returned home with local, mostly organic produce, some of which ended up in the stew pot. So let me present to you my version of a vegetable stew:

Heat up some butter and olive oil in the pot. Add leek and onion (I added some red onion as well). Stir for a few minutes, then add the rest of the vegetables. My mix consisted of mushrooms, root celery, and carrots. Cook for a few minutes, stirring, then add spelt (farro), or why not pearl barley. Finally, toss in stew herbs: thyme, parsley, and bay leaf. Barely cover with vegetable bouillon and simmer, covered with lid, for an hour.

Submerge a thick slice of orange, peel and all, in the stew broth. Season with salt and pepper. Place peeled potatoes on top of it all. I used a Lappish, ancient sort called Puikula, or almond potato. It is supposed to look and taste a little like Yukon Gold, but it has a high starch content (the point being: choose a potato with a delicious flavor). Cover and steam the potatoes until tender. A word of warning for Puikula: the little spindles tend to fall apart easily if overcooked.

Serve the stew ladled on top of the potatoes, along with fresh, crusty bread, such as the wonderful, whole-grain wheat bread from Maatilapuoti, and a glass of heart-warming red wine.

Spring light through the lens

2010-02-17T08:10:00.001+02:00

Sunday spring sunlight in the Botanic gardens of Helsinki. Half a meter of snow outside seemed like a meaningless parenthesis. My husband, the Double Bubble, and I had the honor of being captured on film (or rather, pixels) by the talented, Espoo-based Niki Strbian. For more pictures, visit her blog, and to book her for serious portraits or light-hearted moments with friends, family, or pets, visit Niki Strbian Photography.

Sunday morning, still buried in snow...

2010-02-14T09:12:00.000+02:00

Summer, where art thou...

Tex mex baked beans

2010-02-09T07:33:00.002+02:00

Last Sunday was a lazy day with tex mex dinner and a silly movie. As a side dish for the tortillas with fillings I tried to recreate a delicious baked black bean dish I had a few years back in Santa Fé, New Mexico. The end result tasted surprisingly good, although I am certainly not the one to judge whether my futile attempt had anything to do with Mexican cuisine.

Due to lack of time I used GoGreen prepared black beans in a carton, but I would recommend cooking the beans if time allows. Place the black beans in an ovenproof dish. Add sautéed onion and a little tomato salsa (or go rogue: I used the leftovers of a classic tomato pasta sauce). Season with freshly ground cumin, oregano, salt, pepper, and chipotle (smoked chilli - often found as a hot sauce which can be used in emergency. I found the Amazon sauce a good replacement. A smoky, fiery flavor is the essence). Top with grated cheese, preferably a mix with cheddar, and bake in the oven, first for a while under a tin foil, then open-topped so the cheese colors a little. Serve warm with tortillas, burritos, fajitas etc. and a salad. Or why not as a side dish at a BBQ dinner.

Scottish breakfast tea

2010-02-07T11:24:00.005+02:00

There is something unusual about Brodies Scottish Breakfast tea. Blending it with milk results in a fine, creamy flavor that is absolutely addictive - at least if you like your stronger tea blends with milk. A couple of bags flew home with me from Edinburgh last summer - the home of Brodies Scotland tea company. According to the story, Brodies Scottish Breakfast tea is a mix of Assam and Kenyan teas, specially blended for the soft water in Scotland. Perhaps this is the reason why it tastes so exquisitely when made in equally soft, Finnish water?
My sister swears by the variant by Taylors of Harrogate. Both tea companies allow international online orders - thus my tea & coffee drawer is stuffed with loose tea packs. Excuse me, I must refill my cup!

Navy chair goes Pandora

2010-02-04T22:52:00.004+02:00

As a follow-up on the post about design objects in TV shows and movies, here is another report of the ever-popular Navy chair by Philippe Starck. This time it has been freighted all the way to Pandora, and the year is 2154. Some tough chair. Bet the Starck offspring are millionaires by then, since the chair still sells.
Image courtesy of Avatar, originally from the movie's Flickr website.

Sunday morning, buried in snow

2010-01-31T11:09:00.004+02:00

It has been snowing for days on end. Yet the official meter says we only have a rough half a meter of snow in Helsinki area.

In a few weeks I will find myself first in Colorado for work and then in Oregon for a week, to visit the friends of my husbands. We will be visiting Portland, as well as Eugene and Coos Bay areas. Some pinot noir tasting is a must, and vineyard recommendations are more than welcome! The forests are supposed to be magnificent. Do come with sight-seeing advice if you have some good ideas. :c)

Comfort food / Sticky toffee pudding

2010-01-28T10:14:00.001+02:00

This wonderfully stuffy date and spice pudding is all Jamie Oliver's and courtesy of his website. It is served hot with delicious caramel sauce. Beware, the recipe indeed serves eight good sized portions. I have been considering to try it with a thinner caramel sauce poured over and soaked into the pudding for an all-through sticky sweet indulgence.

Sticky toffee pudding / serves 8

225g fresh dates, stoned
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
85g unsalted softened butter
170g caster sugar
2 large free-range eggs (I've used three medium sized ones)
170g self-raising flour (or 1¼ tsp baking powder and a pinch of salt per cup)
¼ teaspoon ground mixed spice
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons Ovaltine (not available in Finland as far as I know. I've left it out, but it could perhaps be substituted with a tablespoon of cocoa drink mix)
2 tablespoons natural yoghurt

for the toffee sauce
115g unsalted butter
115g light muscovado sugar (I have used 1/3 dark muscovado and 2/3 cane sugar)
140ml double cream

Preheat your oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas 4. Put the dates in a bowl with the bicarbonate of soda and cover with 200ml/7fl oz of boiling water. Leave to stand for a couple of minutes to soften, then drain. Whiz the dates in a food processor until you have a purée. Meanwhile, cream your butter and sugar until pale using a wooden spoon, and add the eggs, flour, mixed spice, cinnamon and Ovaltine. Mix together well, then fold in the yoghurt and your puréed dates. Pour into a buttered, ovenproof dish and bake in the preheated oven for 35 minutes.

While the pudding is cooking, make the toffee sauce by putting the butter, sugar and cream in a pan over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved and the sauce has thickened and darkened in colour. To serve, spoon out the pudding at the table and pour over the toffee sauce.

Interlude

2010-01-25T21:40:00.002+02:00

Cassandra the cat and Double Bubble the lamp. Advice from husband: do not try to do studio shoots at home if you have cats. Bonus advice: long exposure shots tend to be spiced up with the blur of a tail.

The usual suspects

2010-01-17T23:59:00.011+02:00

About a year ago I presented probably the most misunderstood design object: the poor, violently used Emeco Navy chair by Philippe Starck. Its comfortability is overshaded by its tough-looking exterior, and thus the poor thing must play its battered part in various crime shows on television.
Perhaps you have noticed that especially crime shows have their own standard set of office equipment? Aside from the Navy chair, used in cross-examination rooms of CSI, Alias, et al., even the most overworked, underpaid detective has a Starck Tolomeo table lamp.
Many conference rooms, including the one at the FBI unit in Flash Forward, are equipped with comfortable Eames Aluminum Group swivel chairs.
And last, but not least, the sixth season of 24 boasts shiny Apple computers instead of black Dell PCs. Jumping on the Sex and the City bandwagon, are we?
Perhaps you can think of more overused, television favored top design items?

Winter wine and the roots of Zinfandel

2010-01-09T20:24:00.006+02:00

A guest arrived at our glühwein party with two bottles of Feudi di San Marzano wine. The Primitivo grape, of which the wine is made, grows in the "heel" of Italy and gives a medium-bodied, flavorsome wine. Because the wine cost under eight euros and a decent Primitivo seems difficult to find these days (most are used for blending), this wine was a most pleasant surprise: plum on the nose and black currants, chocolate, and an earthy, mellow sweetness on the tongue. Yum. Absolute yum.

Apparently, the Primitivo shares practically all its genes with the Zinfandel, and in this wine the alter ego relationship is certainly visible. Compared to the Californian Zinfandels, this wine was more mellow in taste, lacking every hint of oakiness. Curiously, both wines are said to trace back to Croatia - what an interesting story untold!

This wine would probably be a good match to Moroccan, medium-spiced, earthy, slightly sweet dishes such as tagini, or why not anything aubergine or mushroom with a similar flavor set.

Tempur dreams

2010-01-05T13:18:00.000+02:00

The husband has suffered from bad neck support and sleep apnea. Santa was aware and came to the rescue with a Tempur Symphony pillow. Such an odd experience it is - the material is activated due to body heat and slowly forms according to the shape of your head. One side of the Symphony pillow is curved for extra support, and the other side is flatter. Fortunately, this pillow also looks like a normal, traditional cushion. And most importantly, it seems to provide a good night's sleep.

The care instructions should be well read through: apparently Tempur material does not like to be cold (that means no anti-dustmite treatment in winter weather), nor does it like dry-cleaning, wet-cleaning, rolling, or hot water bottles. If you do all this correctly, the warranty for a Symphony pillow lasts for three years, mattresses hopefully longer.

Image courtesy of www.tempur.fi

Sparkling 2010!

2010-01-01T21:11:00.010+02:00

And so it is a new decennium, the second one of the millennium. Happy New Year to all you readers. An added bonus for the Finnish ones: try to Korpihilla spruce shoot sparkling drink for a non-alcoholic toast. Delicious, golden, sparkly, and not too sweet. Available from several large supermarkets and the Eat&Joy Maatilatori in Helsinki. And no, this was not a sponsored ad. ;c)
The winter here in Espoo is cold and bitter, with heaps of powdery snow. Today the day is 6 hours long on the minute, and the daylight we have is a long, golden sunset.
The change of the year, and especially the completion of a decennium, is classically a time for reflection and anticipation. Last year I wrote a personal note on more unusual experiences, those I have experienced and those I would like to experience one day. I would like to continue the theme with a list of entertaining and slightly odd things I have seen and done while traveling, in the theme frame of this blog.

1. Eaten boiled cow's stomach (I'm vegetarian)
2. Stood on top of the the Eiffel tower, the Empire State building, the Sagrada Familia church, and the Kuala Lumpur Tower.
3. Eaten jellyfish soup
4. Stood on the roof above a mosque in a holy city listening to the prayer call
5. Ridden on a camel
6. Been bitten by a fish and a seagull
7. Climbed a volcano
8. Snow shoed in the Rockies
9. Visited micro countries: the Vatican, San Marino, and Liechtenstein
10. Been to two former "ends of the world"
11. Wandered in catacombs
12. Been pick-pocketed in Barcelona
13. Horseback riding in Hollywood hills
14. Driven in the world's most unsafe car (Tata Indica), steered a Tunisian horse cart, and ridden in a gondola
15. Tried dried reindeer heart
16. Met a locally famous Sami (Lappish) rap artist and talked about reindeer farming
17. Danced ceilidh in Scotland
18. Been to two gold-rush time saloons in California, one which had the ceiling pinned full with dollar bills
19. Seen the Stone Henge and St. Paul's Cathedral in the Vatican
20. Slept in a cave full of bats

When I think back, my travels have been reasonably safe: no military coups, war zones, earthquakes, tsunamis, or other disasters. The odder things have usually been extreme activities or meeting interesting people. Independent travel is the most rewarding form of travel, as it is a complete immersion of the traveler, instead of staying in a western, tour guide standard hotel, taking little controlled dips into the pool of exotism and foreignness. Of course a sociologist would argue that a tourist can never immerse him or herself in any foreign culture and will always remain an outsider. Personally, I would describe the situation of the independent traveler as a person walking around in a bubble made of mesh: present, but separated. Able to touch, but not join. And perhaps that is enough for a tourist visiting countries without the desire to stay and integrate.

The best part of my travels has been meeting people and hearing their stories, whether it was contemplating the muslim-western conflict in Tunisia, stories of the orang-asli people told by a jungle guide in Malaysia, or a discussion of people's rights with Chinese students in Wuhan. These perspectives and the people who shared them are little gems, unfortunately impossible to insert into any photo album. Writing this I realize I scold myself for not traveling with a journal, if only for trying to capture the essence of these stories and the people I have met. Perhaps this should be my new year's resolution: to travel with a Moleskin notebook and a pen, like Hemingway. Perhaps he did know a trick or two, after all?

A shard of Teide on my skin

2009-12-31T07:55:00.001+02:00

Last August we backpacked around the Canary islands, and also managed to climb to the summit of the Teide volcano (story can be found here). Guess what was lying in wait under the christmas tree? This wonderful little necklace with a piece of volcanic glass from Teide. The slopes were scattered with this black, shiny, hard material, and when my dear husband saw this one piece he knew what to do with it. He brought it to Alfred K in Helsinki, a jeweler known for personalized and unique design, where a goldsmith drilled a hole in it and inserted a silver string. The result is a sleek look of shiny black and silver... absolutely lovely, isn't it?

Alive and kicking

2009-12-29T12:00:00.007+02:00

Belated christmas greetings and early New Year's wishes from a busy bee. So far, the holidays have been a time for sleeping, relaxing, and getting through an influenza. No better time to update an almost forlorn blog. Its theme is interior design, lifestyle, and traveling, but unfortunately the last few months of the blog keeper's life have been "work, future planning, and not enough exercise". So you see the discrepancy here. :c)

Next year will bring along many changes and new challenges, and hopefully some news on the design front. If all goes well, the focus of the blog may temporarily shift from life in Finland to life somewhere else. But before I go, I must wrap up my work.

Finally, some lovely things Santa brought me. I must have been a good girl.

It is (yet again) snowing here in Espoo. For those who long for snow, I wish I could send some over in a box - we have too much of it! For all readers, I wish you a wonderful holiday time. May the new year bring you good challenges, much inspiration, and happy surprises.

Apples

2009-11-08T12:41:00.006+02:00

Quick greetings from the middle of the vortex that is called work and future planning. I fear I will be only barely present until christmas. Hope you can bear with me for so long.

However, yesterday (after a quick visit to work) I decided to take a day off. My dear grandparents handed me two bags full of red and green apples a few weeks ago, and they were sitting on the balcony, desperately needing attention. So I pulled out the wonderful Min äppelbok (my apple book, also available in English) by Elisabeth Johansson It is covered in gorgeous, fresh photos, stories of apple trees and apple tree care, recipes, and ideas for drinks, bread, bakery and preserves.
Now our kitchen is stacked with cardamom apple purée, lemon apple jam, apples in port wine, apple juice, apple chips with sugar and cinnamon, apple chips dipped in white or dark chocolate...
I still have a whole bag full of wonderful red Lobos, winter apples. Some of them I used for the chips, but as they store well, I think I will use them for dessert. Baked apples, candied apples, tosca apples, coconut-cream apples...

Book image courtesy of Bonnier Group Agency.

A quick greeting

2009-10-10T21:21:00.003+03:00

Dear sweet readers, I have been terribly busy. The time of wrapping up my projects at work nears, and I fear 24 hours in one day is not enough. I do have news and views to share, but it might take me a while to post them here.
I did manage to take a day off and visit Hotel Kämp to enjoy their five o'clock tea with my mother and sister. The tower of sandwiches, cakes, and scones was terrific and the darjeeling delicious. Although the atmosphere was not especially English, nor a particular haven of peace and quiet, the afternoon tea, with or without sparkling wine, was cozy. Table reservations are recommended.

From grandma's recipe stash

2009-10-04T08:42:00.002+03:00

In the middle of cross-kitchen, champagne brunches and molecular gastronomy it is refreshing to rediscover traditional, Finnish oven dishes: no-fuzz, no-frills, inexpensive, easy, and simply delicious. These recipes have been handed down to me from my mother and grandmother, but like every generation, I have added my own twist to each of them.

Cabbage rice casserole

Best made from summer cabbages, but works all year round.

Boil 2.5 dl porridge rice (glutenous) in unsalted water for 20 minutes. Drain. Fill a large kettle with shredded cabbage. Add water and boil for 10 minutes. The original recipe requires fried, ground meat, but my version is vegetarian and I have substituted the meat with slightly more rice.

Mix cabbage and rice in a large ovenproof dish. In a separate jug, mix cream and milk, half and half, and season with salt and white pepper. Pour cream milk over the cabbage and rice mix until the milk peeks from underneath the mix. Finish with butter shavings and a drizzle of dark sugar syrup.

Bake in the oven at 175 degrees Celcius for 1 hour or until the casserole is moist but not wet. Serve with lingonberry jam or rowanberry jelly, with mango chutney for a more modern twist, accompanied with pickles such as gherkins, red cabbage salad, pumpkin salad, or beetroot salad.

Potato anchovy casserole

This one is called Janssonin kiusaus in Finnish, meaning Jansson's temptation. For some reason potato casseroles made this way are called temptations - don't ask me why. Especially within the Swedish speaking minority of Finland the dish is typically served at late-night parties as vickning, or night food. The salty, creamy consistency is perfect at 2 a.m. after hours of nothing but drinks. the anchovies can be substituted with cold-smoked salmon or ham.

Brown 1-2 large onions and a couple of crushed cloves of garlic in a pan. Keep on the side. Slice about a kilo of mealy potatoes and open a can of anchovies. Build layers of onion, sliced potatoes, and anchovy fillets in an ovenproof dish. Add a little salt and white pepper between layers. Mix cream and milk half and half and pour until it peeks from underneath the layers. Top off with the anchovy brine.

Bake in the oven at 175 degrees Celsius for 1 hour. Serve with the same kind of condiments as the cabbage rice casserole.

Zucchini casserole

This dish is a perfect summer dish, light and easy, made in the oven while the cook relaxes on the beach.

Brown 2 onions and a good amount of zucchini cubes in a pan together with a couple of crushed cloves of garlic. I sometimes substitute half of the zucchini with aubergine. Transfer the vegetables to an oven-proof dish and season with salt and white pepper, perhaps with some paprika as well. For added sturdiness, add pan-fried ground beef. Pour over about 2.5 dl of kermaviili, a Finnish, lighter kind of sour cream, which can be substituted with a mix of sour cream and thick yoghurt, for instance. Top off with a few dl of grated cheese.

Bake in the oven at 175 degrees Celsius for about 45 minutes. Serve with rice, or in more modern style, with couscous.

A couple of classics

2009-10-02T07:45:00.000+03:00

Timeless classics, again by Eero Aarnio. The Pastil chair's second best feature, along the form, is that it floats - ideal for a waterside summer house.
The Ball Chair comes also in this updated version, with speakers and an iPod dock. The design and upholstering actually reduce surrounding noise pretty well.

Cheese!

2009-09-30T07:25:00.001+03:00

A little wedge of brie, waving from the cheese counter, accompanied by the sophisticated wink of a piece of Appenzeller... Who could resist cheese? My husband, who originates from the cheese land of Holland, devours a kilo of Edam, mild Gouda or Oltermanni a week. Perhaps you cannot speak of the little joys in life in his case, as the chunk of cheese in our fridge is quite sizeable... he seems to prefer both quality and quantity. When it comes to quality, I thought I would share some simple combinations of cheese and accompaniments for any moment of indulgence. Feel free to indulge them in large quantities, they're that good. :c)

Camembert on a Carr's pepper cracker with pear slices
Manchego with red wine syrup
Camembert with rowanberry jelly
Aura blue cheese (Finnish crumbly, salty blue cheese) on a gingerbread
Parmiggiano with a glass of Amarone wine
Roquefort with a glass of Sauternes or Trockenbeerenauslese dessert wine
Leipäjuusto (Nordic, oven-baked, squeaky cheese) with cloudberry jam (for warm lavender cream leipäjuusto look here)
Canary cheese, warm baked or cold fresh, with green coriander mojo
Oltermanni or Turunmaa with raspberry jam

Taide & Design magazine

2009-09-28T10:41:00.000+03:00

Yet another lifestyle magazine has hit the shelves in Finland. Taide & Design strives to find its own niche by combining art and design. Its stories include designers and artists, furniture and other interior design objects, and fine art. International correspondents highlight new trends and events around the globe, and the magazine also has a summary in English.

I just acquainted with the magazine by browsing it, so I cannot judge on the quality of the stories. My first impression was that the magazine seems to be searching for its style and scope. However, the idea is attractive, and I truly hope there will be enough market space in Finland to keep this one alive.

Air Fair Suomi 2009

2009-09-26T09:08:00.000+03:00

Art Fair Suomi, the largest contemporary art sales exhibition in Finland, is held 26.9-4.10 in Kaapelitehdas, Helsinki. The opening was crowded, and the exhibition seems larger than last year; two halls filled to the brim with exciting, insightful, shocking, and delicious pieces of art from mostly young, emerging artists. The collection was strong on photography, but included also pieces of other kinds, as well as performances.
This year the sparkling was replaced by an interesting new drink by Laitilan panimo. The Brändy long drink was produced in the sixties and seventies, and is now back in action. It tastes like brandy-spiked Pommac or oak barrel-matured apple cider, and even convinced a wines-only-person like me. I will definitely serve it as a welcome drink at our next dinner party. It probably also goes well as a base for bellinis, instead of the sparkling wine.

McFlamingo

2009-09-24T07:15:00.001+03:00

If we had some floorspace left at home, it would surely be occupied by the Flamingo light by Eero Aarnio. Too bad the light is so stately it requires quite some space to stand out nicely. But is it a flamingo or a deconstructed M of McDonald's?

Available from the Eero Aarnio webshop.

Throwing the towel

2009-09-22T08:56:00.001+03:00

The time has come to grab the bull by the horns (or ourselves by the collars) and steer the steps toward a bathroom supplier for a new towel rack. Right now we have a terrible-looking, old radiator, which both warms the bathroom and our towels. Luckily the new towel rack can be directly connected to the old heating pipes. Unfortunately, due to the pipes the design has to be of a tall model, ruling out this beauty by RejDesign:
Right now we are considering some models by Svedbergs, but cannot really decide which one is best.
Sentakia also has a good option, in brushed steel.
Or how about these two, by Nordhem?
Any other options are most welcome!

Art and auction

2009-09-20T08:29:00.001+03:00

The coming of fall means shorter days and less sunlight, at least on the northern latitudes of Finland. Luckily, fall also equals an abundance of cultural events to kill time and dark days. Here are some design-related events:

Ateneum art museum in Helsinki is showing a large collection of works by Pablo Picasso. The much-promoted exposition opens 18.9. and can be viewed until 6.1.2010.

Bukowski is throwing the annual auction for modern + contemporary & design at 28-29.10. The objects can be viewed 16-18.10. and the catalogue, along with sales prices, will available be online after the auction. Last year it included works by e.g. Alvar Aalto, Birger Kaipiainen, Tapio Wirkkala, Reidar Särestöniemi, and Salvador Dalí.

Home from Habitare

2009-09-18T04:30:00.000+03:00

A couple of little things followed me home from Habitare: the ever-so-lovely candles by Yankee Candle Company and a basket with a couple of small towels for the bathroom by Luhta Home.

Habitare 2009 digest 2/2

2009-09-16T07:50:00.000+03:00

A few more personal highlights and favorites from the Habitare 2009 interior design fair.

Towels and bath rugs by Imabari Towels
Japanese Imabari Towels is a manufacturer of wonderfully soft towels and stylish bath rugs. The Hitchhiker's Guide (by Douglas Adams) tells the truth: "a towel is about the most massively useful thing an interstellar hitchhiker can have". This must have been recognized by Imabari Towels, since they even offer a degree of Towel Sommelier...

Towels and rugs available in Helsinki at Common.

Stainless steel pitcher by JAUR
Finnish steel design company JAUR has a pitcher that is a perfect match with the water cooker by Bugatti - and my kitchen.

Glass tiles by nGLASS
This Finnish company manufactures glass tiles in a variety of colors and sizes. The deep-colored, glossy tiles are a stylish alternative, and according to the company also suitable for flooring (be sure to hire a maid to polish the floor daily). nGLASS also manufactures an intriguing innovation by Glowway, glow-in-the-dark tiles suitable for emergency exit directions - no need for tacky, green tapes anymore.

Lato house by Kannustalo
And last but not least, the new, modern house line by Kannustalo, represented by the Lato house. The name means "shed", connecting the mind with old, Scandinavian-style wooden storage buildings on the countryside. I join the chorus of many stone house absolutes, who think the Lato model is one of the few houses that evoke thoughts considering a wooden house possible, after all. The images here are not from the house presented at Habitare, where the kitchen was quite small but cozy, and connected directly to the dining area. The most pleasant details of the house were the use of glass sliding doors instead of windows and doors, and a separate green room/terrace that extended into the house, with a glass wall facing the kitchen and dining area.

Habitare 2009 digest 1/2

2009-09-14T10:34:00.001+03:00

Helsinki Design Week traditionally ends with the Finnish interior design fair Habitare. From now on the biannual fair will be annual, a relief to those planning remodeling and building projects. Even with the current status of world economy, this year Habitare presented a surprisingly fresh look compared to the bland show two years ago, with little gems of innovation scattered around the stands. Some of my personal highlights:

Faucet by Svedbergs
The Only One faucet works by pulling and twisting the tube for water flow and temperature. The design is stripped down to the most minimal components, and even the nozzle is just a cut in the pipe with a transparent trimming.

Water cooker by Bugatti
Sleek, cool, and practical. Need I say more? Our current cooker is the only other design that personally appeals me - the first, out of production model by F. A. Porsche for Philips, and due to heavy use the past nine years, the dreadful day when it gives can be just around the corner. Good to know there is a knight in shining armor to the rescue. Available in stainless steel, leather-lookalike, and several colors.

Cooking hood by Gutmann
This Futura ventilator can hardly be called a "hood" anymore, as it resembles a ventilating splashback, disappearing into the counter on demand, making it perfect for cooking islands. However practical it may be concerning ventilation power and the need for wiping the panel clean directly after use, it sure looks sleek and handy.

Kubo light by Innolux
Designed by Eero Aarnio, this light looks like three building blocks attached to each other. As a sidenote, Eero Aarnio was also interviewed live at Habitare, where he told an amusing story of the birth of the Ball Chair.

Children and child-minded visitors alike were offered a playground, supported by Magis. The birds are new additions to the Metoo collection, by Finnish designer Oiva Tokka, known for his glass birds.

Canary islands cooking

2009-09-13T11:04:00.007+03:00

One more musing over the Canaries, before it is time to print the photos, paste them into the album, add a pinch of summer sun and a pinch of nostalgia, and place the album on the shelf.

It seems as if no one returning from the islands ever mentions Canary cooking - why is that? We discovered a unique world of gastronomy, with influences from both Spain, Africa, and Latin America, that somehow seems to have evaded our ears until now.

Simplicity is key in my personal taste in interior, and also in cooking. I must confess I cannot quite make myself appreciate intricate techniques, laborsome sauces, and all that molecular gastronomy as much as a dish made of a few fresh ingredients, and whipped up in a matter of minutes. Freshness is also key in the Canaries: nothing better than a fresh fish or vegetables rubbed with good quality olive oil and a pinch of salt before being thrown on the barbeque. Add some papas arrugadas (potatoes boiled in heavily salted water, eaten with salt-crisped skins, absolutely delicious) and some mojo sauce, and there it is, the typical, all-Canarian dish.

Mojo is what it is all about: a mild, oil and garlic-based, uncooked sauce that comes in several basic sorts but is the secret of every cook. Green mojo is often made of parsley or coriander leaves, and red mojo is a mild or medium hot pepper sauce, sometimes with orange or cheese flavor. Perfect on bread, fish, vegetables, potatoes, and Canary goat cheese. The cheese is sometimes grilled, sometimes cold, sometimes smoked, other times not, but always lovely, especially with honey.

Honey is also a typical island product. We found two delicious kinds: thick, golden Tajinaste (Bugloss flower) from Tenerife, and amber, flowing Tagoja from La Palma.

Then there is gofio, which is a bit of an acquired taste: roasted corn and wheat grains, ground to a rough meal, mixed with water to a dough, and eaten as is, together with mojo, spices, or even milk. Gofio is even used to flavor candies and ice creams.

And last but not least, the wines. Tasting is made interesting by the fact that Phylloxera never reached the islands, and thus the varieties can be ancient compared to mainland Europe. The wines themselves are a motley crew. Some are dreadful and others terrific, but since many grape varieties and ways of winemaking are specific to the islands, to me the tasting was a game of trial and error. I found myself disliking some wines just because "they didn't taste like wine should", probably because of the flavor of volcanic soil that could be very strong. Rosé is very common and if the wine served tastes good, it is a perfect accompaniment to the mild flavors of local food. My personal favorite was from Frontera on El Hierro. Canary Malvasía, or Malmsey, is a sweet or semi sweet white wine, even praised by Shakespeare and Robert Louis Stevenson, a fact winemakers are proud of. The flavor is often very sherry-powered, with dashes of honey and apricot. I tasted the Malvasías from Bodegas Carballo on La Palma, comparing a 2006 with a barrel-aged 2001. The 2006 was like a dream, sweet, fruity and lovely, whereas the barrel-aged one was from a different planet: refined, strict, and much less sweet. A bottle of 2006 flew home with us to spend the next ten years in the basement.

Canary islands / El Hierro

2009-09-10T07:17:00.000+03:00

El Hierro, the last stop, is a curious experience. It feels like the end of the world - and in a way it was, being the last known spot on earth and the zero meridian, before Columbus sailed the oceans blue. Sometimes even finding a supermarket or a restaurant can prove to be difficult.

Children decorated a wall in El Tamaduste

Canary pine forest in El Pinar.
Some of the trees bore visible marks from previous wildfires.
Desolate, volcanic landscapeEven the patroness saint of the island, Nuestra senora de los Reyes, stands in a desolate place, with white walls and junipers fending her from the wind and sea.Mirador de la Pena is a Michelin-recommended restaurant perched on a high cliff, and warmly recommended by us, too. The view is absolutely stunning, and the menu consists of a blend of traditional, local dishes with modern flair. The house wine, locally produced Frontera, is delicious.
And so three weeks were gone, in a flash and a puff of smoke. Whatever prejudices we had of the Canary islands, they are forever changed. Indeed, it is possible to experience much more than just endless beaches, terraces and red-baked tourists. The western islands have much to offer: wine, gastronomy, pretty towns, extreme sports, hiking, diving, camping, boating, and even free, inevitable lessons in Spanish, with a Canary twist. In the end it all comes down to the choices one makes, and the preferences of the visitor. Hopefully one day the Canaries will be rediscovered as a diverse holiday location (also by other nationalities than frisky, outdoorsy Germans), bringing in tourists who also care about the state of the delicate, natural balance with its endemic flora and fauna, as well as the unique microecosystems the islands harbor.